Yellowstone in Winter

“For the Birds”

We got to sleep in! We were able to sleep in until 7:00 am, so we could be on the road by 8:00 am. Our day started with a trip through the park, where we saw a herd of bighorn sheep. Then it was off to the house of Dan & Cindy Hartman in Silver Gate, located just outside the park. We were immediately greeted by a plethora of birds that included the Canada jay and the vibrantly blue colored Steller’s jay.

bird with black head, white eyebrow, and blue body and wings

Once inside, Dan regaled the group with tales of his time filming the wildlife, discussing the importance of conservation while showing one of his films. This visit was a highlight for the group because of Dan’s passion and dedication to his craft. It was intoxicating and contagious. The group left with a renewed sense of life and how everything in nature is interconnected, including human beings.

selfie of 3 people

After leaving the Hartman’s we were very fortunate that one of our members excitedly started yelling “Bird! Bird!” when Dustin (impressively) spotted a ruffed grouse from the very back seat in the trees along the road. We excitedly turned the cars around on the icy road to get up close & personal with the bird (from the car), who didn’t seem to notice our presence. After getting our fill of photographs, we were on our way. We hadn’t gone very far when we saw a massive bull elk using its front legs to “snowplow” for the rich grasses below the fresh snowfall. We watched him in awe and then loaded the vehicles to head out of park & back to the lodge. It was an amazing day for all!

 

Yellowstone in Winter

“From Bacteria to Bobcat”

We started today by coming together to watch Old Faithful erupt. It teased us for 45 minutes with small belches of water and steam before finally putting on a show. This was followed by a tour of the Upper Basin by Ranger Colin, whose passion for the world’s greatest concentration of geysers got us excited for our upcoming day of observing geothermal features. We had just missed Colin’s favorite, Beehive Geyser, due to Old Faithful’s antics holding us up.

At our next stop, we split up to choose our own adventure. Some went on a short but snowy hike to Black Sand Pool, laying down to feel the thumping from below. The others took to the boardwalks around Black Sand Basin, braving boardwalks covered in packed snow and slippery conditions, only to have to pause for two bison who decided to walk across the warm ground after wading through the cold river winding through the geysers and springs. Remember to stay AT LEAST 25 yards from a bison! They finally disappeared into the mist, and we continued our explorations.

people laying on the ground near a hot spring

Midway Geyser Basin started with the Excelsior Geyser Crater and Grand Prismatic Spring. The combination of snow, warm steam, and ice make the boardwalks here very slippery, but we persevered. We saw the thermophilic bacterial mats, the silica deposits in the flowing waters, and ephydrid flies! We witnessed larva and adult flies, all happily eating the bacterial mats. They stay active in winter because the waters coming from the springs keep their environment warm enough for them to live.

ephydrid fly

The next stop was Fountain Paint Pots. It was like a scene from another planet: smaller geysers erupting, steam rising from fumaroles, acidic mud bubbling, and colors from both mineral deposits and bacterial mats. Dustin gave us a lesson on Thermus aquaticus, one of the many bacteria making up the colorful mats where the warm waters from thermal features flow over the land.

Hitting the road again in the snowcoach, our driver John had to deal with bison in the roadway. He handled it like a professional, patiently waiting for the herd to decide to move out of the way. This was just out first encounter with road-bison today!

We stopped to see Firehole Falls, where the Firehole River splits the difference between two ancient lava flows, tumbling down exposed rhyolites. While exploring the stop and enjoying the view, we found a nice snowbank that made for a perfect slide.

Further down the Firehole Canyon we came upon a rare sight: a bobcat was feeding on a mule deer carcass on the other side of the river! The bobcat had been feeding on this carcass for days. No one knew how the deer died, but word had spread, and there were many snowcoaches pausing here to take photos. And the bobcat could not have cared less.

bobcat

Next, we had a brief stop at Gibbon Falls, enjoying once again the power of flowing water to reshape the land. From there we drove home, but on the way we had an opportunity to experience stillness and silence. Stopping in the middle of Swan Lake Flats, we all stepped out of the snowcoach, John turned off the lights and engine, and we enjoyed a few minutes just absorbing the night-time scene.

Yellowstone in Winter

“Sights, Sounds, and Steam by Snowcoach”

Day two did not disappoint! We began our early morning with a fine breakfast and got off to a fast start. We arrived in Mammoth Hot Springs at 0715 and loaded into the snowcoach. We then took a very scenic ride on closed (but groomed) Yellowstone National Park roads.

a snowcoach - large yellow van with giant tires

Our first stop was at Roaring Mountain. We all stood very still and used our “deer ears” to hear the mountain speaking to us. Venturing further into the heart of Yellowstone we visited Nymph Lake and observed common goldeneye and ring-necked ducks as well as trumpeter swans. Further in our travels we visited the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, where we observed frozen waterfalls and tens of feet of ice buildup at the base of the falls. The largest, at 308 feet tall, was the Lower Falls, where Thomas Moran and William Henry Jackson once painted and photographed the magnificent scenery. Their art helped convince Congress to preserve Yellowstone as our first national park.

lake surrounded by snow and pine tree covered hills

Nymph Lake

happy looking people in front of a waterfall

Group photo at the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone

Next, we traveled to the Mud Volcano and Dragons Mouth Spring. Here we used our senses to appreciate our surroundings, including the feel of warm steam, the smell of sulfur, and the deep bass sound and feel of steam explosions. The steam explosions of Dragons Mouth sounded like waves crashing into rocks, and Mud Volcano sounded like bubbling grits. Lakeshore Geyser, Black Pool, and Abyss Pool – three of the thermal features in West Thumb Geyser Basin – were amazing to witness. As we traveled on toward Old Faithful, we were able to lay eyes on the Grand Tetons from approximately 30 miles away. This evening, we’re enjoying our stay in the grandeur of the Old Faithful Snow Lodge!

Andy takes the temperature of Abyss Spring at West Thumb Geyser Basin

Yellowstone in Winter

“Ermines and Everything, the Best Day Ever!”

Up before daylight and heading to Yellowstone after a long day of travel, we were all a little bleary-eyed, but soon we sprang to life!!! The first bison of the day was sighted shortly after Roosevelt’s welcome to the park (the famed arch at Yellowstone’s north entrance). The herd was closer and larger than we could have imagined, we could even hear them chewing (safely, from the car)! This was a great start to accomplishing our goal of an octo-ungulate day. As we continued our journey, we were able to rack up six more hooved-mammals (elk, mule deer, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, Rocky Mountain goat, and moose) leaving us missing the ever-elusive white-tailed deer.

bison in road

While viewing the moose, much to our surprise and delight, a subnivean creature popped into view. Mayhem ensued as we scrambled to see the even more elusive ermine. It was hopping over and traversing through the snow drifts at lightning speed, finally crossing the road in front of us. Excitement continued as we tried to capture the perfect picture to share. This was a favorite of the 19 species we spotted today for many people in the group.

white winter weasel with black tail tip in snow

We wrapped up our day with a snowshoe hike to a lovely view of the Yellowstone River. This was a challenging first for many of us in the group and we are proud to say, we all made it to the top and back down. We can’t wait to see what tomorrow holds for us.

Dustin, Julie, and Tonya

Yellowstone in Winter

“Travel Day: The Adventure Begins”

Our day started at 4 am with a trip to Raleigh-Durham International Airport. After our first flight was in the air, we heard that the FAA had grounded all flights until 9 am due to a software update! Thankfully, we had already made it to Minneapolis and it only added an hour to our layover. We spent learning more about our trip and each other, which allowed us to begin our journals. We were given stickers of maps and our background info to begin our reflections, to which we added our own goals and expectations.

people sitting in airport

Our first flight was joyous, with only 35 people onboard. We could all spread out and some people even had 3 seats to lay down! The connector from Minneapolis to Montana was packed tight. After arrival we hit the grocery store for snacks, then hit the road to Gardiner via Livingston. We followed the Yellowstone River south from Gardiner and saw elk, mule deer, bald eagles, and magpies!

view out airplane window of snow covered mountains

We arrived at the North Yellowstone Hostel at 5:30 pm local time, 7:30 our time. A taco dinner awaited us as we had our first group meeting. We are now ready for our Yellowstone National Park journey tomorrow!

poster of lodge logo

Yellowstone in Winter

“Getting Ready for an Adventure”

The adventure is less than a week away and I can hardly contain my excitement. Getting ready for an adventure like this is what I live for. Give me a packing list and an agenda of what is ahead and I hit the ground running — or should I say organizing, ordering, packing, and making plans for all that will be left behind (including my teaching partner/pup, Andi)! The packing list is long and the weather is unpredictable, but I am determined to be as prepared as I can be. I even got some new boots to upgrade my favorite L.L. Bean boots from 7th grade; it probably was time! Weather conditions look to be favorable and hopefully not quite as chilly as it could be, but best to be prepared. I’ve started watching snippets of Yellowstone 150 on Netflix and reading the book American Wolf. I hope we’ll get the chance to see a wolf pack during our observations of the Lamar Valley. I can’t wait to travel in a snow coach to Old Faithful. My students are getting excited, too, and have begun asking questions. I am thrilled to be able to share this adventure with them and hope that it will inspire them to reach out and explore the world around us. I am ready; bring on the snow and cold!
two pairs of boots - one old, one new with tags still attached

by Tonya Dobson

Yellowstone in Winter

“Not Goodbye, Just See You Later”

It has been a bittersweet day, to say the least. While we watched for wildlife in Lamar Valley before dawn, the magnitude of the moment sat heavy with us. This would be our last trip to the valley. Luckily, the wildlife did not disappoint. We were able to see many moose, big horn sheep, bison, foxes, coyotes, and even a golden eagle! A raven put on quite the show for us as we watched for wolves at Tower Junction, the first place the Wapiti Pack graced us with their presence.

Raven on snow

A raven checks out the team as we scan the horizon for wolves. Ravens are bigger than our crows, and have deeper croaking calls.

This afternoon we were joined by Ranger Mike as we walked through the Mammoth Terraces. This is such a unique, ever-changing geologic feature. As calcium carbonate precipitates out of the hot water, new rocks are formed here daily, creating stair step features that accumulate rapidly (sometimes more than six feet a year)! It really looked like something from another planet. Ranger Mike was very knowledgeable about the park, and gave us a great demonstration of how geysers work. His humor and quick wit made learning about the terraces even more fun!

A group of people overlooking mammoth terraces

Surveying the seemingly alien landscape of Mammoth Terraces.

As our time in Yellowstone drew to a close, a somber mood fell over the group. We approached the archway of the northeast entrance, and many a tear began to flow. Katherine read us one final quote in the park.

“Thousands of tired, nerve shaken, overcivilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home: That wildness is a necessity; that mountain parks are reservations useful not only as foundations of timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life.”

– John Muir

With Yellowstone in the rear view mirror, and with very heavy hearts, we said goodbye to this magical, transformative place.

Mammoth Terraces

Mammoth Terraces

Many tears and heartfelt reflections were shared at our final group meeting. It is very clear that we have forged powerful, lasting bonds with our teammates. We have supported and uplifted each other, validated each other in our individual journeys on this trip, and built a truly unique safe space where our vulnerabilities made us a stronger team. Going our separate ways is going to be tough, but we will stay connected and always be in each other’s hearts.

To both our team and Yellowstone ….. this isn’t goodbye, just see you later.

Yellowstone in Winter

“Sunrise, Sunset in the Geyser Basins”

Old Faithful geyser erupts

Old Faithful erupts in the morning light

Our morning began with a breath-taking hike through the Upper Geyser Basin, home to the renowned Old Faithful. As the sunrise gilded the skies, our anticipation began to build, much like the pressure under the thermal features located within the park. Although the Upper Geyser Basin is a meager two square miles in area, it is home to the largest concentration of geysers in the world!

Gathering on the boardwalk, we waited for Old Faithful to mesmerize us. As plumes of steam bloomed and drifted in the light breeze, we began to feel and hear a deep rumbling beneath our boots. Patiently waiting allowed us to reflect on the nature of time and the order of wilderness. Old Faithful did not disappoint, as we watched the geyser perform a spectacular show.

Icy branches from the landscape

Sparkling rime ice coats everything the steam touches and makes the entire landscape magical.

As we made our way in the snow coach to Grand Prismatic hot spring, a collared matriarch bison (#03) and her family group blocked the road. While we watched, four bison crossed the road and jumped a four foot fence! Initially, the tall fence separated a yearling bison that seemed hesitant and unwilling or unable to jump it. It ran frantically back and forth along the fence several times trying to get to the rest of its family before finally making a giant leap and clearing the fence. Unbeknownst to the young bison we cheered and applauded for it from within our snow coach.

Black Sand Pool provide another memorable experience. We were encouraged to “nap” on the obsidian sand beside the geothermal feature. As we laid down we began to feel mysterious thumps beneath us- not unlike what we imagine the footsteps of the giant from Jack in the Beanstalk to sound like. After several rumblings, we heard bubbles erupt from the surface of the pool. Living up to it’s nickname, Thumper, the Black Sand Pool provided us the opportunity to see, hear, and feel the power of the forces beneath us.

The group lays on the ground around Black Sand Pool

Thumper, also known as Black Sand Pool, reveals its hidden power beneath the surface.

When we arrived at the Lower Geyser Basin, we ran quickly to view the spectacular and very large Fountain Geyser. Its surface waters were churning and spewing forth showers of mineral-rich water. The tall and joyous eruption of Fountain seemed to encourage the neighboring Jet Geyser to begin to bubble, boil, and spray at the same time! Our eyes were not wide enough to see the magnificence that was occurring before us. Moving along the boardwalk we admired Red Spouter, the Leather Pool, Fountain Paint Pots, and the Celestine Pool. As the sun began to set in the distance, we bubbled with our own enthusiasm as we relayed how awesome these experiences had been.

Fountain geyser sends showers of water down on us.

The group watches Fountain geyser erupt.

Seeing Fountain geyser erupt was such an awe-inspiring surprise.

Yellowstone in Winter

“A Ride Through Winter Wonderland”

Today was a bit different for us.

This morning, we checked out of the Mammoth Hotel and boarded a monster truck-like snow coach headed to Old Faithful. Chelsea, our coach guide, was incredibly informative throughout the day. Because we were on a commercial snow vehicle, we were able to take roads that are closed to all others.

Today, we traveled back in time – geologic time. We had the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the fire and ice that has sculpted what is now Yellowstone National Park over millions of years.

In addition to understanding the geologic processes that shaped the landscape of the park, we also got to walk around and witness present day geologic activity through hydrothermal features. Our first feature of the day was called Dragon’s Mouth, and it was a fitting name. As we walked across the boardwalk, a deeply felt growl was audible to our ears and our souls. This phenomenon is caused by steam and other gasses exploding through the water causing it to crash against the walls of hidden caverns, resulting in a fearful rumble that can be heard from many yards away. Chelsea shared a origin story from the Kiowa people that is tied to this thermal feature in which a young boy conquered his fear to gain access to a new landscape.

Dragons mouth spring

Dragon’s Mouth Spring

Another highlight from today was the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Randy gave us an amazing lesson on art by Thomas Moran that was inspired by Yellowstone landscapes. It was an incredible view that most all of us considered “indescribable.” Chelsea also gave us an inside look at how subnivean (under snow) micro habitats are affected by climate change.

Canyon

Lower Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

A cross section of a snow drift

Our snow coach guide Chelsea explains the different layers in the snow pack and where different types of creatures can be found.

Once we finally made it to the lodge, we had a very emotional reflection on our day. We are so appreciative for this opportunity and the people we have shared it with. As we prepare for the last leg of our trip, we are going to bed with full hearts (and bellies) and gratitude for this amazing experience.

Yellowstone in Winter

“The Scientists’ Day Out”

We spent an amazing morning with Kira Cassidy, a wolf biologist who works for the park. She showed us her office, which included an incredible amount of binders full of data on the park wolves, going all the way back to the reintroduction in 1995, and some pelts from wolves who have died over the years. She is a wealth of knowledge and answered our many questions about wolves. As educators, we wanted to know what information she would want us to share with our students. She said that the biggest takeaway from the wolf reintroduction project would be the lessons we have learned from the removal of the wolves from the park. Their removal was celebrated at the time as a good thing for the ecosystem. Years later, we realized how important apex predators are to the ecosystem, and began making efforts to correct our mistake. The wolf reintroduction is an amazing example of the power of habitat restoration and management.

So many years of data from so many wolf interactions was humbling to see in the Wolf Project offices.

Once we started driving, we encountered a crowd at the same place where we saw the Wapiti wolf pack yesterday, so we made a brief stop but only saw one and it was pretty far away. We continued on to Lamar Valley to look for a carcass that Kira suspected was there based on GPS data from the Junction Butte pack from about a week ago. We split up into 3 groups to cover more ground, and were able to find it—- SCORE! A bison carcass! Not much was left, but Kira gave us a glimpse of the scientific process the researchers use by letting us help to collect data on the carcass as they attempt to determine cause of death. We sawed the femur in half to collect a bone marrow sample, and then we extracted a tooth to take back to the lab for processing.

Jessica got to saw the femur in half to collect the marrow sample!

Everyone say “cheese”….so we can take a tooth sample!

On the drive back to Mammoth we saw one more wolf, a black likely from the Junction Butte pack. We also heard it give one low howl, which was amazing to experience. Today was also a great day for coyote, we saw close to 10 in various places.

After lunch we had a choice in our activities. Some of us went cross-country skiing, it was the first time for Vin and he got the hang of it pretty quickly! Melissa was in her element, we decided she was the alpha skier.

Randy shows off his cross-country skiing skills.

Another group went to the ‘Boiling River’ (actually the Gardner river, but this is the local name for the particular spot where hot water from a thermal feature runs into the cold river water). After a most scenic walk, we quickly disrobed in the snow and began the descent to the crystal clear water. Temperature reading from the infrared thermometer ranged from 127 degrees to 20 degrees.

Blaire uses the infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the water we are about to enter.

Slipping and sliding on the algae covered stones we waded in to find just the right temperature. With frozen eyelashes, we reveled in the rich mineral waters as we reflected on our phenomenal experiences. Navigating the hot springs and the flow of the icy river waters we successfully exited for a quick return to the car. American Dipper songbirds greeted and congratulated our daring spirits as we made a quick run for the suburban. Driving back to Mammoth Springs for a quick rinse in the shower, we spotted numerous bighorn sheep.

There is nothing like soaking in the ‘Boiling River’!

Today has been full of adventure and new experiences. More importantly, we have continued to build strong bonds with our teammates. We are so excited to continue this journey together!